Day 26 – End of the Trail

Sunday, July 26th, 2020 – Roseburg, OR to Port Orford, OR

At the Pacific Ocean, Port Orford, OR

After nearly four weeks of riding across America on the roads less traveled, of seeing sights that relatively few will ever get to enjoy, and of facing daily challenges that test one’s endurance, today we would complete our trip.

And what a superb way to finish the journey.

Another Magnificent Oregon Vista
One of Many Lonely Roads

Oregon is a magical place (just ask Rob’s Sweetheart, LeeAnn, who lived there for more than 20 years). The range and diversity of geographical beauty is almost beyond comprehension: rolling plains, high alpine desert, dense, canopied rainforests, massive, snow-capped mountains (in July!), majestic rocky coastline, mighty rivers, lazy streams, towering, ancient Redwoods and Douglas Firs… one cannot help but be awestruck by Oregon’s grandeur.

Our departure from Roseburg followed Route 42 through Camas Valley, and down Route 542 into Powers, OR. “542” was an amazing paved road, with countless twisties and sharp drop-offs, prompting us to label it Oregon’s “Tail of the Dragon”.

Following our arrival at Powers, we did have one potential roadblock (literally), which could have sent us back-tracking for many miles – a padlocked gate.

Locked gate that almost halted our progress

We were lucky, however, with just enough clearance on the right side to allow our bikes to pass though. No explanation for the presence of the gate was given, and we never encountered another one on this section of the trip.

‎⁨Rogue River – Siskiyou National Forest⁩, ⁨Port Orford⁩, ⁨Oregon⁩

As the trail entered the Siskiyou National Forest, we were treated to one of the nicest sections of the entire trip; many miles of winding, mountain dirt roads, completely devoid of traffic, with little or no evidence of recent use.

A road all to ourselves…
‎⁨Rogue River – Siskiyou National Forest⁩, ⁨Port Orford⁩, ⁨Oregon⁩

Ultimately, we exited Siskiyou, and rode into Port Orford, OR, where the Trans America Trail ends.

The Pacific Ocean, at last!

Riding right down onto the beach, we parked with the beautiful, rocky Oregon Coastline and Pacific Ocean as a backdrop, and took one final photo of bikes and riders to commemorate an epic trip.

Dan Cullity, Rob Bergh, and Ryan Holt – Port Orford, OR, July 26th, 2020

The official TAT was now completed, BUT – we still had to get home! That meant after the deep sighs, high-fives, and Rob dropping his bike on the beach the VERY LAST INCH of the trip (which somehow seemed quite fitting), we saddled back up, and headed north towards Lincoln City, OR.

Along the way, we stopped for a much-deserved celebratory lunch at an excellent German restaurant that Dan had previously visited, the Blue Heron Bistro, in Coos Bay, OR. – http://www.blueheronbistro.net . It’s WELL WORTH the visit if you’re there in town.

Following one last (MUCH needed) ceremonial washing of the bikes, bags, and boots at a car wash near Florence, OR, we finally arrived at our destination the evening, Lincoln City, OR, after 12 long hours on the road.

Tomorrow, the last leg of our trip to Portland, OR.

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Day 25 – Oregon Redux

Saturday, July 25th, 2020 – Lakeview, OR to Roseburg, OR

When You Come to the Fork in the Road, Take It!

Boy oh boy… was it dry out West.

And very, VERY dusty.

So dusty, in fact, that after many, many miles of enduring the choking conditions on the powdery dirt trails, we elected to detour onto pavement for much of the duration.

Every turn reveals another picture-postcard

Not that this was a disappointment, by any means. We traveled in excess of 100 miles of single-lane paved roads, and saw fewer than a dozen vehicles. But as always, plenty of cattle on the open range.

Cattle, cattle, everywhere

Following a magnificent ride through the Umpqua National Forest, our stop for the evening was Roseburg, OR, where our room overlooking the South Umpqua River was one of the surprise delights of the trip.

View from our Hotel Room Balcony, Roseburg, OR

One last thing – we do get questions here on the blog from time to time, and like to answer them whenever possible. Recently, Craig K. of Chatham, MA wrote:

“Hi Rob! I’ve been wondering, do you guys ever get chaffing or sores from spending so much time on the bikes, and if so, what do you do about it? I’ve always been fascinated by this topic – Thanks! C.K.”

Craig, thank you for your insightful and very intimate question. Yes, this certainly can be an issue, especially given the number of hours we spend daily “in the saddle”. Shifting one’s weight occasionally is a good preventative measure, as is standing on the foot pegs periodically.

When things do get out of hand, however, we take our cue from the Great Apes, and find that all-natural remedies such as aloe vera or coconut oil provide lasting and soothing relief.

It gets better. Eventually.

Craig, thank you again for your question – and please, keep them coming!

(Another form of soothing relief)

Tomorrow, our much anticipated arrival at the Coast, and the conclusion of our journey along the Trans America Trail!

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Day 24 – Oregon Trail!

Friday, July 24th, 2020 – McDermitt, NV to Lakeview, OR

Horizon to Horizon, an Oregon Expanse

OK, so not the ACTUAL Oregon Trail, but our path DID go across Oregon, so… there you go.

A brilliantly practical (and artistic) mailbox

Leaving early in the morning is a delight. Temperatures are cool (this morning about 57 degrees), traffic is negligible, and sunrises, majestic.

We departed McDermitt, NV around 6:25 am, and traveled no more than 200 yards north to cross into Oregon.

Oregon Roadside Art

Immediately our journey commenced up into, and across the remote and wide-open expanse of, Southeastern Oregon. After 100-or-so miles, we arrived at Fields, OR – a virtual oasis in the midst of an almost incomprehensibly vast expanse of open plains.

The Oasis that is Field’s Station, Fields, OR

Here we encountered one of the very few TAT riders we would meet during the journey – a gentleman from North Carolina, riding a KTM 1290 Adventure, who, only a few days earlier, had become stranded in the very demanding terrain of Black Dragon Wash in Utah (see our Post, Day 19).

This brought into sharp focus the risks associated with riding in these rough, remote areas – not to mention on a LARGE, HEAVY bike – but especially ALONE.

After hours of attempting to free his motorcycle from rocks and deep sand, he was forced to “Press the Button”.

The SOS button, that is.

Fortunately, he was running a Garmin inReach Mini Satellite Communicator, and within several hours, help had arrived, freed his bike, and left him with a fresh supply of water. (As an aside, we had redundancy in this safety department; Dan had a Spot Locator, and Rob, the inReach Mini above). One does not ask in such situations what the bill was…

From Fields, we continued westward toward the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, and the unincorporated town of Plush, OR, where, frankly, we encountered far more cattle on the open range than antelope!

Holy Cow – That’s a LONG Way Down!!!

Our next stop was Lakeview, OR, where we arranged for lodging for the evening, and then decided to do some afternoon sightseeing through the trails of the Winema National Forest. It did not disappoint.

A view in the Lakeview Region

Tomorrow, more of Oregon!

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Day 23 – Schitt’s Creek

Thursday, July 23rd, 2020 – Battle Mountain, NV to McDermitt, NV

Kelly Farm, ‎⁨Winnemucca⁩, ⁨Nevada

Yes, pretty much exactly what the title says.

And also one of the best days of our adventure.

The morning started early once again, and nearly with an immediate set-back while still in Battle Mountain: a gate posted with a Private Property sign.

The trail passed over historic 25 Ranch – an enormous 126,000 acre cattle ranch spanning four counties in Nevada. A quick phone call to the Ranch Manager, and thankfully, permission to ride across the property was cheerfully granted.

As a side note: 25 Ranch was put up for sale in January of this year – all 126,000 acres, plus additional BLM grazing rights. Current asking price is just a shade over $30M, in case you’re interested.

Ok. Got it!

We spent a fair amount of time riding across the open space of 25 Ranch, and once into Winnemucca, NV, encountered an amazing sight.

Long-abandoned Kelly Farm, around which the trail passed. Or should we say USED to pass.

The road which once existed was gone. Long gone. The only thing remaining, other than the buildings, was the dried creek bed, which seemed to have no obvious means of crossing. Except… for the outhouse.

Schitt’s Creek

A previous adventurer had commandeered the remains of the privy to construct some temporary planking across the maw on one side of the creek. This looked promising. Once in the creek bed, the other side seemed scalable. Rather than back-track 40 miles, we decided to forge ahead.

It’s in, now to get it out!

All three of us, together, carefully walked each bike down and across Outhouse Bridge, then dragged the bike into position to walk it up (under power) the other side. It took some doing, but all bikes and parties made it across, unscathed.

Ryan in front of a positively ENORMOUS Cottonwood Tree
Kelly Ranch from Above

After a quick tour of the buildings on the property, we were back underway, putting miles in the rearview mirrors.

As if we hadn’t encountered enough amazing sights, we next rolled into Paradise Valley, NV, perhaps best described as a living Ghost Town. It’s inhabited, but with some amazing buildings, which are not.

Ryan & Dan at Micca Saloon, Paradise Valley, NV

Between Paradise Valley, NV and McDermitt, NV, our final destination of the day, we passed up, over, and through the Humbolt-Toiyabe National Forest.

WOW.

Ascending Hinkey Summit

The variety of wildflowers we encountered along the trail here was breathtaking.

Nevada Wildflowers

It was another long day, slow-going in spots (due to portages, and all), with more than 160 miles covered.

We are in McDermitt, NV for the evening, only a stone’s throw (literally) from OREGON.

Stay tuned!!

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Day 22 – Nevada, Take Two

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2020 – Ely, NV to Battle Mountain, NV

Nevada Splendor

Today was a GREAT day.

Another early departure had us on the road from Ely just after sun-up, blessed with cool temperatures and fine riding conditions. It was a long day in the saddle, with a total of over 225 miles covered. To put this in perspective: Boston to New York City is 219 miles. Imagine that.

On a dirt bike.

One of the many gates we’ve passed through in the West
Gate Sign

Nevada has an amazing variety of topography, from wide open desert, to towering mountains – and we’ve been able to ride the gamut, all in one day.

View in the Toiyabe Range, Nevada
Water Break

In one section we rode through in the Toiyabe Range, a great deal of clearing had been done along either side of the road, presumably for a fire break. We didn’t encounter any crews along the way, but it was evident they had been hard at work. The road itself was also in great shape – a joy to ride!

Across the Desert, Nevada

At one point on the trail, the gravel road, which averages about 45 mph, passed through a ranch. Or more correctly, the through the front yard of a ranch. The owners had (understandably) posted a 5 mph speed limit sign across their property, which we happily adhered to:

A Charming Nevada Ranch

As previously stated, today was really long, and our arrival in Battle Mountain was more than welcome. We narrowly outran a thunderstorm, and got the the motel just before the rain began.

Showers to shed the road dust, cold beers to quench the thirst, and Chinese delivered to the room made for a happy end to a memorable day.

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Day 21 – Nevada

Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 – Richfield, Utah – to Ely, NV

An Endless Road, Nevada

Early to bed, and early to rise, gets you on the trail sooner… and also makes for some great photographs!

A Beautiful Utah Sunrise

We departed Richfield, Utah just before dawn and headed westward towards Nevada.

Road Leading to the Wah Wah Mountains, Utah

The brilliant Crystal Peak is visible from a great distance as one approaches the Wah Wah mountains. It’s a unique beauty.

Crystal Peak, Wah Wah Mountains, Nevada

From the Wah Wah Wilderness Study Area, we continued westward, crossing into Nevada at Baker.

Common Roadside Sunflower (Uncommonly Beautiful!)
Another endless vista

Extraordinarily dry conditions throughout the West during our trip have resulted not only in extreme fire danger warnings, but have made dust from the trail a CONSTANT source of irritation.

Both Man and Machine are coated in an ultra-fine powder that makes life difficult, to say the least. This causes a big problem with the electronics as well – electrical connections (such as with our GPS mount) do not like the contamination – constant cleaning is a must.

Dust really raises havoc with the equipment!

Our stop for this evening was Ely, Nevada, where a shower, hot meal, and a cold beer were as welcome as ever. Tomorrow, more Nevada adventures!

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Day 20 – Thou Shalt Not Pass!

Monday, July 20th, 2020 – Price, Utah to Richfield, Utah

One nicely made sign!

Some days, well… they just start out with a set-back.

On this particular morning, we departed Price, UT and headed southwest to Emery, and into the Manti-La Sal National Forest. The trail began fine enough, but very quickly turned a bit nasty.

View into the Manti-La Sal National Forest

Our ascent into the mountains, a series of very steep, sharp curves, combined with extraordinarily slippery talc-like sand, proved treacherous. It didn’t take long for all concerned to decide that 40+ miles of potentially similar conditions was not a prudent choice. A detour was in order.

This required some back-tracking and creative re-routing, but we reacquired the trail without too much difficulty.

Hand-Cut Tunnels on Old Route 10, Utah

The route between Emery, UT and Richfield, UT provided an abundance of fine riding and great scenery.

A rare Utah Water Crossing

Our stop for the evening was Richfield, Utah. Tomorrow, Nevada!

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Day 19 – Black Dragon Wash

Sunday, July 19th – Moab, UT to Price, UT

Black Dragon Wash

This one was REALLY a day to remember.

Following two great days in Moab, we covered another 70+ miles of beautiful terrain this morning on our way to Green River, Utah. After stopping there to tank up, we continued along the trail, and ran into our first hiccup:

Ruh-Roh!

A bridge that we were supposed to cross was closed due to “dangerous conditions”. Our motorcycles certainly could have made it over safely, but rather than tempt fate… we detoured.

This cost us perhaps 10 miles and 15-20 minutes, and then we were back on track. The day quickly got VERY interesting.

The only thing receiving less maintenance than this sign was the trail it was on!

We didn’t know it at the time, but what lay ahead was one of the more incredible sections of the Trans America Trail, called Black Dragon Wash.

The Entrance to Black Dragon Wash

It’s a fairly demanding piece of terrain (especially for those unfamiliar with it), and the established trail, which is strewn with large rocks and ledges, has been re-routed in many, many places, due to substantial washouts over time. One comes to a fork and, well, as Yogi Berra said, “You Take It”.

One choice can be difficult, the other – impossible.

Part 2 of Black Dragon Wash

We also didn’t realize that this very challenging piece of the trail went on for over 20 miles… The most difficult section was limited to perhaps only 5 or 6, but thank you – that was enough!

(The above video is long, but it contains some GREAT footage – enjoy!)

In the middle of all this excitement and adventure, we also experienced one of our rare mechanical failures – Dan’s fuel supply line popped off his tank’s petcock, resulting in a stream of gas – yikes!

Working on repairs

More correctly, it didn’t “pop” off, but was pulled off – as our diagnosis revealed.

In preparation for the trip, the three of us had installed oversize plastic tanks on our bikes, manufactured by Acerbis (more on them and their tanks in a later post). Well, in elevated temperatures (which were between 105 and 110 today!), these tanks expand when they can’t vent enough… The outward movement on the left tank lobe was sufficient to pull the hose clean off. Running with the gas cap cracked open proved to be the best solution. Not optimal, but it worked.

Utah Painted Hills
Go left, Dan!

By the time we had made it through Black Dragon Wash and its associated off-shoots, we were all exhausted. The nearest accommodations were in Price, UT (more than 1-1/2 hours away), but we pushed onward, and made it our stop for the evening.

Tomorrow, more of Utah!

Travel Route, Sunday, July 19th, 2020

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Day 18 – Moab Revisited

Saturday, July 18th, 2020

A beautiful spot for a water break

What a treat to have two days in a row at the same hotel, with world-class riding at one’s disposal. How lucky were we to have a second day to enjoy Moab!

One of countless monumental rock formations

We had a great ride around the La Sal Mountain Loop Road and Castle Valley, with amazing views of Moab and Canyonlands National Park.

What a Ride!
A Phenomenal Section of Trail

Temperatures were bumping 100 degrees, so by noon time, we decided that we deserved a (rare) sit-down lunch, and again visited the Blu Pig, next to our hotel. We ate all our meals there, and they were VERY good.

Castle Valley, Moab, Utah

After lunch, Dan, being the most energetic of the group, decided to do some more two-wheeled exploration, while Rob & Ryan wandered around downtown Moab “exploring” things there. Everyone had a great time.

Moab is a place unlike any other. Whether or not you’re an off-road enthusiast, visit here if you can. You’ll not be disappointed!

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Day 17 – Moab!

Friday, July 17th – Monticello, UT to Moab, UT

It was a pleasant, scenic, and enjoyable ride from Monticello to Moab this morning, with moderate temperatures, great roads, and beauty and splendor to spare.

We rolled into town just a shade past 9:00 am, hit the local car wash (yeah, THAT was long overdue), and removed hundreds of miles of mud and dust from bikes, bags, and boots.

A view from the carwash, Moab
Three Helmets on a Fence, by Ansel Adams

Once things were cleaned up, we headed over to Mad Bro Powersports for servicing on our bikes – https://madbropowersports.com.

Mad Bro Powersports
Mad Bro, Moab, UT

Our man there, Troy, was fantastic, arranging for tires changes, oil changes, and general servicing. Techs Louis and J.P. did an awesome job – thanks guys! If you’re in Moab, be sure to visit our friends at Mad Bro – they’re top notch!

While waiting for the bikes to be serviced, we checked into La Quinta Inn & Suites – https://www.wyndhamhotels.com/laquinta/moab-utah/la-quinta-moab/overview – where Martin at the reception desk could not have been more accommodating. There are some really fine folks here in Moab.

One of the sweet, sweet advantages of staying at La Quinta was the Blu Pig BBQ and Blues Joint right across the parking lot – http://www.blupigbbq.com

RYAN!! Put down the phone and EAT DEM WINGS!

Here we enjoyed the first sit-down lunch of our entire trip. I (Rob) had ribs, and they were on a par with the best I’ve ever tasted. When in Moab, Blu Pig is a must visit.

It was nice to have a break after more than two weeks of constant travel. Tomorrow promises to be a great day, with some of the best riding imaginable here in Moab – Stand By!!

Travel Route, Friday, July 17th, 2020

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Day 16 – Goodbye Colorado!

Thursday, July 16th – Ouray, CO to Monticello, UT

An Abandoned Structure, Dove Creek, CO

Sometimes you just don’t wanna get up.

Engineer Pass took a lot out of us all yesterday, so this morning, we decided to sleep in a bit, and catch up on some much-needed rest. Those extra 30 minutes felt really good!

Packing up the bikes this morning was a lot more fun than usual, as we were being buzzed and dive-bombed by – hummingbirds! The little devils were everywhere, and remarkably inquisitive. They were also way too fast for us to get any photos.

Our path out of Ouray, and towards Utah, took us through Telluride, over Lizard Head Pass, and through the Uncompahgre National Forest.

Unparalleled Views around every corner
Taking a well-deserved break
Groundhog Reservoir

From there, we passed through the San Juan Mountains and the San Juan National Forest, where the views just continued to amaze. Colorado simply has an unending supply of beauty and wonder.

Ryan on the trail

After a gas-stop in Dove Creek, CO, we continued westward, and crossed over the border into Utah, ending in Monticello, Utah for the evening.

Tomorrow – Moab!

Travel Route, Thursday, July 16, 2020

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Day 15 – Engineer Pass

Wednesday, July 15 – Salida, CO to Ouray, CO

Engineer Pass, Colorado

Boy oh boy, was this a day to remember.

A bright and early departure had us covering an amazing 150+ miles of spectacular roads between Salida and Lake City by around 1:00 pm.

A Magnificent Alpine Meadow

Once in Lake City, however, the real adventure began.

The Ute-Ulay Mine, Lake City, CO

The route between Lake City and Ouray over Engineer Pass is some of the most amazing and challenging road in all of Colorado. Not many folks get to experience this section of trail, especially on two wheels.

A waterfall outside of Lake City

The conditions, to be quite honest, were not optimal, but we made the most of it, and pushed forward.

A relatively tame section of the trail
Indian Paintbrush

In total, it took us close to five hours to complete the journey over the pass to Ouray, but those are hours we’ll never forget!

A view from Engineer Pass
At the Summit

It was a long, long day, and it never felt so good to get to our motel as it did this night. We were three very tired amigos.

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Day 14 – Two Weeks In

Tuesday, July 14th – Trinidad, CO to Salida, CO

We are now exactly two weeks into our cross-country adventure, having ridden more than 2,700 miles from Concord, NC to Salida, CO.

We’ve tried to share with you all, as much as possible, the beauty and splendor we’ve encountered along the way, and we truly hope you’ve enjoyed it.

But not everything that’s seen is beautiful.

There’s sadness, and hardship, and ugliness, too. Instead of photos today, allow us share some of these observations.

Many of the areas we’ve traveled through, especially in the Southern States, suffer with terrible poverty. There are folks living there with so very little, and obviously with few prospects of improvement. It makes one extraordinarily thankful for the very basics of life: food, shelter, and clothing. Many people want for these things every day.

Town after town we’ve passed through has been populated by failed businesses: gas stations, convenience stores, retail establishments of all types. Abandoned buildings are everywhere. Truly blighted areas are all too common. The majority of these are obviously not recent (Covid) related closures, but part of a much longer-term trend.

In all of the rural areas we’ve visited, from North Carolina to Colorado, there have been failed and abandoned farms. Once prosperous family homesteads have simply been forgotten, and left to decay. It’s also not a new phenomenon – it’s been going on for many, many decades.

In Oklahoma, there are still remnants of farm structures from the Dust Bowl era of the 1930’s that can be seen (we’ve shared photos of some). These, along with more recent examples, stand as a chronological record of the plight of farmers and farming in this country.

Finally, a bit on the “ugliness”.

On Monday, July 13, we passed a feed lot while riding through the Oklahoma Panhandle. A feed lot is where cattle are kept in typically cramped, penned conditions, standing in mud and their own waste, while they are fattened on grain for market. The one that we encountered could be smelled long before it could be seen – perhaps a half-mile or more away.

Even worse than the horrible odor was the physical condition of the animals. In contrast to the robust, energetic, free range cattle we’ve encountered daily along the trail, these animals were totally listless, and appeared unhealthy. The conditions they were being kept in were unsanitary, and inhumane.

My sweetheart, LeeAnn (this is Rob is writing) has long insisted that we buy only pasture-raised/organic/free range beef. I now understand why, and will never again complain about the price. She’s much smarter than me, and knows best.

So what’s the take-away? Be grateful. Help others in need when you can. Support small, local businesses, and buy humanely raised organic meats from family farms whenever possible.

But don’t forget the beauty and splendor along the way – they’re what make the trip worthwhile.

Day 13 – Colorado!

Monday, July 13th – Liberal, KS to Trinidad, CO

One of many abandoned Oklahoma Farms we encountered

Yup, 280+ miles today of great, great riding.

We passed through FOUR states: Kansas (lower left-hand corner), Oklahoma (the Panhandle), New Mexico (the upper right-hand corner), and finally, Colorado (lower right-hand corner). It was a day filled with an incredible diversity of topography, scenery, and beauty.

Oklahoma Wildflowers

Criss-crossing Oklahoma farmland over the past several days provided a never-ending stream of sights and surprises:

Oklahoma cattle talking up a storm
Tires make very affordable signs
Another long-abandoned building on the Oklahoma Prairie

After traveling the length of the Oklahoma Panhandle, we crossed over into New Mexico. The road in the photo below runs directly on the border between the two states – Ryan on the left is riding in New Mexico – Dan on the right is in Oklahoma!

Riding in Two States
An amazing piece of New Mexico Scenery
A GREAT stretch of road!
(The temperature hit 105 later on)

After an amazing (and VERY WARM) run through this beautiful corner of New Mexico, we crossed the border into Colorado.

Another roaming roadblock!
Weather moving in over the hills
More storm clouds on the horizon

We did encounter a little bit of the weather depicted above as we approached Trinidad, CO, but nothing to cause concern.

It was a long, long day with almost 300 miles in the saddle. Tomorrow promises to be another spectacular ride on some of Colorado’s most beautiful roads – Stand By!!

Travel Route, July 13th, 2020

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Day 12 – Oklahoma MUD!

Sunday, July 12th – Blackwell, OK to Liberal, KS

***Ouch***

So, who knew dirt roads came in so many different flavors?? Let’s review:

There are good ole “regular” dirt roads. We’ve all been on ’em, they’re nice – everything’s good, high-speed, straight ahead, no problems.

Then there’s gravel roads. They can be a bit dicier – not as much traction, slower around corners, gotta be careful… but it’s OK, just need to be aware. When they’re dry, it’s all good.

Sometimes gravel can be heavier, though, or looser, with larger rocks. This can cause real problems, as things get complicated – you need to be verrrrry careful.

And of course there’s sand – in all it’s varieties. Unpredictable. It can shut you down. Proceed with caution!

But then there’s mud. The one “flavor” that can leave a real bad taste in your mouth.

Traction? WHAT traction?!?

The night before, an intense storm passed over the Kansas/Oklahoma border, dropping a fair amount of rain, and making things quite soupy. Fifteen minutes into our ride this morning, things went downhill quickly.

After wrestling with the thickest, stickiest, most unforgiving mud imaginable for many miles, we decided to detour for a bit to see if things would dry out.

They didn’t.

Ditch to the right, ravine to the left

Then, as if things weren’t challenging enough, we encountered a downed tree blocking our path.

BUT, this particular obstacle would not stop us! Luckily, Dan had his Leatherman Free P4 that Ryan had found at a water crossing in Tennessee the week prior, and he used the saw blade to quickly MacGiver the tree, and clear us a path. Thankee, Dan’l!

The mud, however, was unrelenting.

We finally called it quits with dirt for the day, and found a carwash to rid the bikes of the concrete-like mud that had encrusted them:

In the 100-degree heat, the mud quickly set up hard as rock

The balance of the day was spent on pavement, riding through beautiful Southwest Kansas.

How far to the horizon??
Rolling through Anthony, Kansas on a Sunday

The few towns that we did pass through, like Anthony, KS (above), were surprisingly quiet, with very, very little activity. This was no doubt due to it being a Sunday, and perhaps to a lesser extent the fact that it was 100 degrees out.

We ended the day in Liberal, Kansas (home to Dorothy’s House and the Land of Oz) with more than 280 additional miles behind us.

Next up: Colorado!

Travel Route, July 12th, 2020

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Day 11 – Oklahoma!

Saturday, July 11th – Siloam Springs, AR to Blackwell, OK

Changing lanes w/o a directional

My oh my, but things ’round these parts do stretch out a bit.

We departed Siloam Springs, AR this morning, bright and early, and crossed into Oklahoma, little more than three miles away. Before long, we had ventured into the vast sections of open prairie, where the grassland and unpaved roads go on forever.

No surprise to those who live in these parts, impassible roads are a common occurrence. More than a few times today, we needed to detour due to closures for a variety of reasons. Sign like the one below are commonplace.

Flooding can be a serious problem, as the sign indicates
One of a number of Oklahoma bridges we crossed

Much of the ground we covered today is open range, with unspoiled beauty from horizon to horizon, and of course – cattle.

This guy was not observing proper rules of the road!
More live entertainment

Temperatures had started out relatively mild, in the low 70s. By late afternoon, however, the unrelenting sun had pushed the readout into triple digits.

(We actually saw a high of 102 for the day)

By 4:00 PM we had logged more than 250 miles, and were ready to throw in the towel. A cool shower and a warm meal were a much appreciated reward at the end of the journey. Another 1-1/2 to 2 days will be needed to finish crossing Oklahoma and to make it into Colorado…

Travel Route, July 11th, 2020

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Day 10 – Road Closed!

Friday, July 10th – Russellville, AR to Siloam Springs, AR

Oark General Store, Oark, Arkansas

Today provided us with some of the absolute best riding we’ve had thus far; fabulous dirt roads, spectacular weather, and CLEAN BIKES! We started out first thing this morning stopping at the CYCLONE TUNNEL WASH in Russellville, AR:

Time for some housekeeping

Everything was positively filthy from more than a week of severe duty on the road, and we were fairly certain that the next Hampton Inn we stopped at was going to tell us to just “keep on rollin’!” if we didn’t clean up our act…

Once we had performed our ablutions, we were on our way, winding through the Arkansas backroads. Yesterday’s rains had washed away the dust that had plagued us for days, and provided clean, smooth sailing.

Dan on Arkansas Dirt
Arkansas Trailside Beauty

The first two hours were glorious. Perfect road conditions, cool temperatures, and low humidity. But then…

D’oh!!

We were confronted with our first road closure of the day. This required a 20 mile detour, but we took it in stride and got back on course, only to be met with a DEAD END sign on the next turn. This meant at least ANOTHER 20 mile detour – Now what???

“Dead End” – What dead end?!?!

Frustrated, and refusing to believe the sign, we elected to push forward, and see where the road took us. Well, it took us for a ride, that’s for sure!

Ryan negotiating a tricky downhill section

The end result was that we made it though to the other side, but not without some VERY challenging terrain. Obviously, on this day, “Dead End” did not apply to us!

We saw vast numbers of these butterflies along the trail

Our next stop along the route was at the Oark General Store – http://www.oarkgeneralstore.com – in Oark, AR. This little treasure is an oasis in the middle of nowhere, run by wonderful folks, providing fuel for both man and bike.

Once back on the road, we still had a couple of surprises ahead, as we encountered more road issues:

Just look straight ahead, Ryan!

The one shown above was a pretty devastating wash-out, but enough of the inner lane remained to allow traffic to pass. We were grateful to avoid another detour.

A hundred-mile Arkansas view

Our helmets hung in Siloam Springs for the evening, we will bid farewell to Arkansas tomorrow, and begin our trek across Oklahoma in the morning. We’ve very much enjoyed our time in this beautiful State!

Travel Route, July 10, 2020

Follow our daily track via satellite at:

https://share.garmin.com/robdanryanmotorcycleadventure

Day 9 – Arkansas

Thursday, July 9th – Lonoke, AR to Russellville, AR

Roadside Charm in Scotland, Arkansas

So, we spent another day winding across Arkansas, with the terrain becoming more varied and interesting. The weather was varied as well, with one particularly large, angry storm system out of Oklahoma heading directly into our path.

Yellow, orange, and red are never happy colors when it comes to weather, but we took it all in stride, getting suited up, and preparing for the worst. As it turns out (thankfully), the worst never showed up.

Ryan shot this video just as we had pulled over to put on our rain gear:

The weather changed in an instant

Although it did rain, in the overall scheme it was pretty mild, and we were grateful for showers that cooled things off, as well as cut down the dust.

In other news, the scenery and associated surprises today did not disappoint:

Our posse
Arkansas Wild Flowers
Miles and miles and miles of scenic dirt roads.

We put another 170+ miles on the odometer, and with (currently) only fair weather forecast for the near future, we anticipate some high-mileage days to come.

Next Up: Oklahoma!

Got Bait?

Day 8 – Thanks Graham KTM!

Wednesday, July 8th – Batesville, MS to Lonoke, AR

Ryan & Dan, with Donny Graham, owner of Graham KTM/Husqvarna

You know, you meet the nicest people on a motorcycle – and on the TAT.

At 8:00 this morning, we called Graham KTM in Senatobia, MS – https://www.grahamktm.com – to see if they could perform a miracle on a moment’s notice, and set us up with three new front tires for our Suzuki DR-Z400S’s. Well, Jake Lowry, who works at Graham’s answered the phone, and informed us that yes indeed, miracles are what they specialize in.

We were there within the hour, and the guys at Graham’s immediately jumped into action, and had us taken care of in no time. Owner Donny Graham pointed out that his shop is the only one specializing in dirt bikes within 200 miles; he understands the requirements of TAT riders, and has been catering to them for years. He’s a great guy, with a superb shop and fabulous crew. We really appreciated the help – thank you, Donny!

As of today, we’re west of the Mississippi

After leaving Graham’s, we continued westward, and within a fairly short time, crossed over the Mississippi:

Going over the Helena Bridge

Once in Arkansas, we criss-crossed countless miles of delta farmland, with rice, and corn, and soybeans as far as the eye could see.

Makin’ way for the Big Boy

The day presented a mix of weather, with some fairly heavy, localized downpours. This created some real fun in places, with deep, standing water, and plenty of mud!

We got under cover JUST before this started…

The real toll, tho, was taken by the fine, talc-like dust, which accumulates on every surface, including the riders!

Mud, dust and dirt everywhere
Fine dust from the dirt roads sticks to everything
Time for a much-needed shower!

It was another exciting, 200+ mile day, complete with challenges, successes, new friends, and a lot of fun riding. Oh, and as always.. a couple of detours!

The road wasn’t “closed” – it was GONE

Day 7 – Tires!!!

Tuesday July 7th – New Albany, MS to Batesville, MS

Rob & Ryan, Takin’ Care o’ Business

OK, so today was all about tires.

First thing this morning, when were were loading up the bikes, Dan noticed that his front tire was worn – quite worn. Prematurely worn, based on our expectations:

Ruh-Roh!

Rob & Ryan’s were not far behind, leaving us scrambling to make arrangements for replacement tires, ahead of schedule. OK, we can deal with this – it’s part of the game.

We were heading back into “civilization”, with hopes of finding a local shop that could help us out, when Dan mentioned that something didn’t feel right with his rear tire. Immediately we realized: FLAT!

Oh no…

Our Guardian Angel was looking out for us, though, as the flat occurred within a hundred yards of a truck stop, with covered parking, and other amenities; this, after having ridden untold miles through remote areas, with nothing in sight.

The practice afforded by multiple tire changes prior to our trip, along with having brought all the necessary tools and materials along with us, made for a relatively quick change of the tire tube. Within little more than an hour, we were back on the road. Success!

Mississippi Black Eyed Susans

One nice thing that happened today was that we met up with a couple of fellows we had run into several days back, Adrian from Connecticut and Colin from Indiana, who were also doing the TAT, except in their Jeeps.

Easier on Four Wheels Than it is on Two

So far, they’re the only other individuals we’ve encountered who are doing the Trans America Trail besides us. We’ve had most of the roads entirely to ourselves, which has been quite the treat – we’ll see how long that lasts.

A Corridor of Kudzu

Day 6 – Mississippi

Monday, July 6th – Pulaski, TN to New Albany, MS

Tennessee Trumpet Vine

So, some words on how we ride each day. The three of us have a system in place that is comfortable, safe, and shares responsibility. Everyone has a role, which makes things much easier for all.

Dan is out in front. He is highly skilled, with a lifetime of experience that makes him the perfect choice for leader of the pack. He’s best able to read the road, and to alert everyone to obstacles or issues up ahead.

Rob is navigator. He’s in the center position, monitoring the GPS, and calling out route instructions over the radio. His main job is to identify the next turn so that everybody’s prepared.

Ryan is sweep. He’s in the rear position, and keeps an eye on traffic, along with anything else that may not be apparent to the riders in front. He’s also responsible for constantly reminding Dan & Rob to turn off their blinkers. We appreciate that. Very, very much. Thank you, Ryan!

Sometimes one lane just isn’t enough…

Today was the first day in our trip that we encountered rain. It was a short-lived afternoon shower, but with enough gusto such that we all got plenty wet. The balance of the day was beautiful and sunny. And hot. It’s most definitely hot down here.

We also encountered our first impassible roads today. Stuff happens (like bridges that are out), so we needed to re-route on a couple of occasions in order to get back on the trail. Not a big deal, but this could be more of an issue out west, when a detour could mean back-tracking 100 miles or more.

Bikes Unloaded, at the Hampton Inn, New Albany, Mississippi

With 229 more miles behind us, it was another very good day. Everyone was tired and sore, but happy to have a much needed shower, a hot meal, and a cold beer. Here’s to tomorrow!

It’s out of this world!

Day 5 – Scenic Tennessee

Sunday, July 5th – Dayton, TN to Pulaski, TN

The Quintessential Tennessee “Fixer-Upper”

On Sunday, our adventure continued through through the gorgeous Tennessee countryside, with more perfect weather as our travel companion. The majority of the roads we traversed were dirt and gravel, a number of which provided plenty of technical challenges. The sights were varied, with plenty of surprises…

Cars, cattle and crawl – what more could you ask for???
Not all lawn signs are stationary

A keen, attentive eye is a must, as one never knows what may lie around the next corner:

Wrasslin’ Cattle in the Tennessee Countryside
Dan & Ryan Taking a Break

It was a great day on all fronts, including the amount of ground covered, with over 200 beautiful miles in the rearview mirror.

Lots of water to contend with along the trail
Time Warp Footage of Ryan from Rear Facing Camera
Home Sweet Home

Day 4 – Happy 4th of July!!

Saturday, July 4th – Franklin, NC to Dayton, TN

An iconic Tennessee backroad scene, July 4th, 2020

Happy 4th to All!!! What a glorious way to spend Independence Day, riding through more than 150 miles of spectacular North Carolina and Tennessee countryside, in positively perfect weather. You couldn’t ask for a better day.

Views that go on forever…

Leaving a modest amount of early morning fog behind us in Franklin, NC, we quickly rode into sunshine that stayed with us for the duration. The Great Smoky Mountains provided an endless supply of breathtaking views, along with roads that never failed to thrill and excite.

Can you imagine a more scenic place to take a break?!?
Our route included part of the Trail of Tears
Yes, this MIGHT be a good road…

Here’s the satellite tracking link, which allows you to see our route:

https://share.garmin.com/robdanryanmotorcycleadventure

Classic Roadside Americana

Perhaps the most exciting part of our July 4th adventure included three separate water crossings, two of which we were able to ride through, and a third that required walking the bikes across, in the interest of safety.

Water crossings have their cost

Our stopping point for today was Dayton, TN. We arrived plenty warm from the bright Southern sunshine, still a tad damp, and carrying more than a little bit of dust from the many, many miles of dirt and gravel roads that criss-cross this beautiful state. It was indeed a Happy 4th for us.

Day 3 – Tail of the Dragon

Friday, July 3rd – Maggie Valley, NC to Franklin, NC

Early Morning Photo Op Overlooking Ballhoot Scar

What a day Friday turned out to be! The route from Maggie Valley to Deals Gap, which traverses the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Great Smoky Mountains, is home to some of the most spectacular motorcycle riding in the country, including the (in)famous “Tail of the Dragon”, which boasts 318 curves in 11 miles. Although the primary focus of the Trans America Trail is back roads, dirt and “off-road” riding, the sheer beauty and excitement of these roads makes them a “must ride” as part of the experience.

Rattlesnake Mountain Tunnel, Blue Ridge Parkway

Although the Tail of the Dragon is an extremely popular destination, and can be quite crowded, we were blessed with both an incredibly beautiful day, and relatively light traffic:

Our final destination was Franklin, NC, where we were grateful to have a comfortable room, and a some excellent BBQ for dinner. A great end to a memorable day!

Just how much crap can three guys carry on motorcycles?!?!?
Dan had a salad – I am contractually obliged to point this out.

Day 2 – On to Maggie Valley

Thursday, July 2nd – Spruce Pine, NC to Maggie Valley, NC

Dan & Ryan Posed for the Camera

The curse continued on our second day, with more gorgeous weather and spectacular riding, covering another 100+ miles of dirt and paved back roads.

North Carolina Roadside Charm

Despite daily forecasts of rain and thunderstorms, our rain gear remained packed away and unused; a welcome outcome. The trails leading through the Pisgah National Forest were superb, with each turn more beautiful than the last.

One of Countless River Crossings

Maggie Valley was our stop for the night – a very popular tourist destination with bikers, as well as vacationers of all stripes. We were blessed to have another fine day behind us, with hopes of many more ahead!

Day 1 – North Carolina

Wednesday, July 1st – Concord, NC to Spruce Pine, NC

The term “Southern Hospitality” takes on a whole new meaning once you’ve had a chance to experience it in person!!

Our destination first thing Wednesday morning was the home of Ryan’s grandmother Irene, and her daughter Mary Ann, in Concord, NC, where we were to unload our bikes and prepare for departure. These sweethearts treated us like royalty, and made it VERY difficult to leave! Two more thoughtful, beautiful ladies you could not find.

But leave we must…

Heading Out

After saying our goodbyes, we departed Concord to pick up the Trans America Trail – or “TAT”, as it is referred to – about 10 miles north.

An example of the unparalleled beauty of North Carolina

Right out of the gate, were treated to some of the nicest weather and most spectacular scenery one could hope to ask for. Add to that countless miles of winding dirt roads, climbing through the Blue Ridge Mountains, and it made for a spectacular start and a day to remember!

Practicing Proper Social Distancing…
One of a number of Eastern Box Turtles we encountered

With more than 150 miles in our rearview mirrors, we arrived in Spruce Pine, NC where we laid our heads for the evening – a little sore, more than a bit tired, but very, very happy. It was a GREAT start.

Day 0 – On the Road

Tuesday, June 30th – Cape Cod, MA to North Carolina

The first day of our trip began at approximately 6:00 am in Sandwich, MA, with our three Suzuki DR-Z400 motorcycles loaded into the back of Ryan’s GMC Sierra pickup truck. We used the superb NICE RACK tie-down system from http://www.motoprohq.com and recommend it HIGHLY – it is an excellent product, which was a joy to use, and performed flawlessly.

Bikes being loaded the day prior to departure

After all our gear was loaded into the back, and some very teary good-byes were said to our loved ones, we were off on the road for Concord, North Carolina, where our ride was to begin.

Over 970 miles, and some 15 hours later, we arrived.